The Interest in the study of microbiomes has exploded since 2007, when the Human Microbiome Project was launched in the United States, and does not seem ready to weaken, particularly with industrial opportunities (pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, food, etc.) , linked to the understanding of the interactions between microorganisms and the human body.
It is present on the surface of the skin, and in the hair follicles, the ducts of the sebaceous glands. Divided into resident flora and transient flora, the composition of the skin microbiota is influenced by many parameters (immune system, environment, hygiene and use of cosmetic products). It is now recognized that individual-microbiota coexistence is a real mutualism: the skin flora would play an essential role in protecting against pathogens and maintaining an operational barrier.
Generally, the objective sought is to maintain the balance between the different species present on the skin and thus avoid potential disturbances.
Taking the example of studies on the digestive microbiome, cosmetic brands have therefore looked into “compatible” ingredients to strengthen existing flora:
In particular by:
Discussions are underway at the level of the European Commission’s working group on “border” products. Indeed, the status of products “used to keep the microbiome of the epidermis in good condition” is discussed. Clinical studies can now be carried out by test laboratories specializing in the safety and efficacy of cosmetics before placing on the market, to measure the concrete impact of formulations on the microbiome.
In the era of increasingly “personalized” cosmetics, this trend is clearly well on the way to establishing itself. Do cosmetic ranges adapted to each person’s microbiota, in addition to the type of skin, constitute the future of cosmetics?
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